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Posted on 07 Окт 201711

Mandatory - Official Site

Mandatory - Official Site
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He doesn’t like to think about death, he says, ‘because it seems pointless. Kray said the most touching thing that any hardman’s ever said to me. A hunting thing would be good, but she didn’t want to do that. First, when he was 22, there was Rosemary Bramble, a typist from Clapham and ‘a very nice girl’, whom he left for Jean Shrimpton. Through a storage and work room, bicycles leaning against the wall, and up the stairs, into a large, light space, the sound of perfuming the air, and there is Bailey, sitting on a stool at a long counter.

I mean, when I was photographing her, I called her “girl”, because you forget – “All right, girl, move a bit to your left…” But she was really nice. We had lunch together once but we were so pissed I don’t remember a thing about it. I watch modern kids – lots of my friends have kids – and they all have too much in a way. But he has not taken fashion photographs in more than 30 years, ‘because you start repeating yourself. He continues to work every day, on portraits, commissions and his own paintings – big, brash, colourful canvases in what you might call a neo-expressionist style.

He was, of course, one of the 500, and he was friends with, photographed or made love to most of the other 499. In recent years he has produced books featuring collected portraits of painters, architects, film directors and designers (Eye, 2009); and pictures of British soldiers in Afghanistan (Heroes, 2010). Could the same be said of the current crop of supermodels? Jourdan Dunn? Kendall Jenner? Gigi Hadid?  He looks blank. When I was with Catherine Deneuve she used to say, “You never recognise anybody, but at least you could smile. In the 1980s he devoted much of his time to  making commercials – largely, as he cheerfully admits, for the money. Otherwise I’d be a right boring old c—, wouldn’t I?’ He wheezes out a laugh and shouts across the room. A portrait of a Konyak village elder taken by Bailey in Nagaland in the same year here comes a time, I suggest, when you’re less preoccupied by looks – other people’s or your own. I was thinking, “Should I give him the  fare home or something?” But I avoided him, and I’ve always felt guilty about that. He never slept for more than four hours a night until recently, when he and Catherine moved into a new home in north London, a converted church. How, I wonder, has his marriage lasted 30 years? He shrugs.

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And my message back to him was, make the best of it, mate, because that’s all you’ve got. And did you ever think that people would still  be talking and writing about it 50 years later?  ‘Oh no. Bailey’s photographs can be unforgiving, but his portrait of the Queen is disarming because of  its charm: a smiling granny with pearls. In the 1980s he devoted much of his time to  making commercials – largely, as he cheerfully admits, for the money. In 1965 he was married for the second time, to the French actress , whom he had photographed nude for Playboy.

Otherwise I’d be a right boring old c—, wouldn’t I?’ He wheezes out a laugh and shouts across the room. I could see differently; the second was being brought up in the East End, because it toughens you up. Prone to sweeping, dismissive generalisations: people don’t understand photography; journalists who interview him don’t know what they’re talking about. He started taking pictures during his national service in Malaysia, then worked as an assistant to the society photographer John French, before going out on his own, taking pictures for the Daily e shot his first cover for the magazine in 1960. You can get all the crumpet you want anyway if you play your cards right.

I thought, “Yeah, and guess who’s not coming to dinner – me!” I could handle predatory gays in bars and things, but I’m not sure I could have handled Cocteau and Maugham. He remembers the first cover he shot for Vogue: he was up a ladder, doing something arty, when the fashion editor Sheila Wetton walked in the room. He said, “It’ll be an amusing weekend, Jean Cocteau’s coming as well. In recent years he has produced books featuring collected portraits of painters, architects, film directors and designers (Eye, 2009); and pictures of British soldiers in Afghanistan (Heroes, 2010). I did her in the nude because people said she’d had a sex change and I wanted to check her out. I’ve been to some f—ing  shitholes in terms of infrastructure, but that was the toughest. A lot of men don’t like women; or a lot of men are looking for their mother. It’s what every journalist  who has interviewed him over the past 40 years  has wanted to talk about. It was , his first muse, whom he made the most famous model of the era, who first started calling him ‘Bailey’, and he has been just ‘Bailey’ to everybody ever since – everybody except Lord Lew Grade, for whom he made documentaries about Andy Warhol and Luchino Visconti in the 1970s and whom he ‘adored’, and the Kray twins, who all insisted on calling him ‘Dave’.

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